Test mléčné čokolády s lískovými ořechy – jak je na tom s obsahem kakaa, mléka, ořechů či plísní?
Kdo z nás si čas od času nedopřeje radost v podobě tabulky dobré čokolády? Ta s lískovými oříšky má mnoho podob: sáhnout můžete po mléčné, hořké či bílé a liší se i použitou formou ořechů. Spotřebitelský časopis dTest se zaměřil na mléčné čokolády s celými lískovými ořechy a zjišťoval, jaký mají obsah kakaa, mléka, ořechů, i jak chutnají či zda neobsahují plísně. Došlo i na srovnání s německými variantami čokolád.
„Napříč cenovými hladinami jsme vybrali 11 čokolád různého původu. V laboratoři se sešly výrobky německé, švýcarské, polské i britské provenience a kromě běžných jsme zařadili také dvě bio čokolády,“ říká Hana Hoffmannová, šéfredaktorka časopisu dTest a shrnuje výsledek testu: „Žádná z nich nás nezklamala.“
Ve všech čokoládách laboratoř zjistila mnohem více kakaového prášku, než vyžaduje vyhláška (2,5 %). V průměru šlo o 5,4 %, přičemž nejvyšší hodnotou se mohla pochlubit dmBio Vollmilch Schokolade ganze Haselnuss. Nejméně tukuprostého kakaa ukrývala Lindt Milch-Nuss, a to 4,5 %. Testované vzorky neměly problém ani s dosažením vyhláškových 25 % kakaové sušiny. „20% podíl u britské značky Cadbury Diary Milk Wholenut je v pořádku, nepatří totiž do kategorie „mléčných čokolád“, ale jde o tzv. family mléčnou čokoládu. Pro tento speciální mléčnější druh platí mírnější požadavky,“ říká Hana Hoffmannová.
Jedním z kroků analýzy bylo hledání rostlinných tuků jiných než kakaové máslo. V čokoládě by se vyskytovat neměly, jedinou výjimkou je šestice povolených ekvivalentů kakaového másla: bornejský tuk, palmový olej, sal, bambucké máslo, kokum gurgi a olej z jader manga. Jejich množství však nesmí překročit 5 % a samozřejmě musejí být přiznány ve složení. Z testovaných čokolád se k jejich použití hlásila jen britská Cadbury Dairy Milk Wholenut, šlo o směs palmového a bambuckého tuku.
Stěžejní složkou mléčné čokolády je i mléčná sušina a tuk. Mléko se do čokolády přidává v sušené podobě a někteří výrobci podíl mléčných surovin ještě zvyšují přídavkem sušené syrovátky. Výsledky byly opět bez problémů, předpisům vyhověl i vzorek s nejnižším podílem mléčné sušiny (16,8 %), Ritter Sport Whole Hazelnuts.
Součástí testu bylo rovněž senzorické hodnocení čokolád. Posuzovatelé známkovali vzhled, texturu čokolády, intenzitu čokoládové chuti, vůni a celkový dojem. Mezi čokoládové vady patří zejména skvrny na povrchu, ukazující na problémy při tuhnutí čokolády nebo při skladování. Dále nevýrazná, nepříjemná nebo cizí příchuť či vůně. Žádná z čokolád zcela nezklamala ani výrazně neoslnila. Několik vzorků mělo problémy s použitými oříšky, týkalo se to značek dmBio, Tesco a Cadbury. U všech tří se posuzovatelé shodli na nahořklé chuti, u značky Tesco navíc doprovázené i žluklými tóny.
Laboratorní zkoumání se zaměřilo i na obsažené lískové ořechy. Většinou platí, že v levnějších výrobcích najdete drcené ořechy, v dražších celá jádra. „Vyhláška neříká, kolik oříšků má čokoláda obsahovat, v tom mají výrobci volnou ruku. Informace o podílu ořechů ale musí být vždy uvedena na obalu a měla by být pravdivá. Sedm čokolád bylo štědřejších, u značek Kaufland/K-Classic, Karina, Rossmann/EnerBio a Marks and Spencer jsme naopak našli o něco méně ořechů, než kolik avizoval obal,“ uvádí Hoffmannová. dTest také zjišťoval, zda oříšky neobsahují plísně a karcinogenní aflatoxiny produkované plísněmi. Všechny čokolády vyšly z testu bez poskvrny.
dTest vyrazil na nákupy i za hranice, konkrétně do Německa, a ke značkám Milka, Ritter Sport, Lidl/Fin Carré a Kaufland/K-Classic pro srovnání dovezl varianty určené pro německý trh. Podle informací na etiketách byly všechny česko-německé dvojice stejné. Shodovalo se složení, deklarovaný podíl kakaové sušiny i ořechů. Senzorická zkouška pak zjišťovala, zda se čokolády liší. Rozdíly nalezli hodnotitelé u všech dvojic. „Většinou šlo o drobné nuance, pouze u dvojice čokolád Milka byly rozdíly markantnější. Komisi lépe vyhovovala „česká“ Milka – vykazovala intenzivnější chuť a měkčí oříšky. Německé zboží v intenzitě chuti zaostávalo, oříšky byly tvrdší a navíc jich bylo méně,“ uzavírá Hana Hoffmannová.
Zdroj: dTest
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